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9月6日 "Family" Drives & Short RidesWell today was an interesting snapshot of the surfing family. Such an adventure bundling the kids and the dog into the pathfinder and heading off in search of sun and surf. We found it too, at Fairhaven. The wind was cold and the water even colder, but waves were there to be had and I caught a small percentage of them. Not as many as those out the back, perhaps I should have used my "fun board" instead of the Thruster. Not to worry. One thing I have noticed since working nights is how easy it is to get sunburnt. The day passed without incident, apart from some "unpleasantness" involving burger rings. Not much to write really, except that I do enjoy the West Coast, despite the long haul out there. Sure do need to live nearer the coast, these petrol prices are hell.
8月30日 The Old Man & The SeaweedAfter the usual uneventful journey along the Bass Highway in the Pathfinder I reached the San Remo bridge and crossed over onto the island of Phillip. It is a dreary place in my opinion, many people find it an exciting getaway and it is riddled with cheap kit homes used by families for holiday-making. Personally the surf is the only thing thatI find inviting about it. ( I spent NYE there once in a tent in someones backyard - not a thrilling experience ). Sadly the mini-digital cam I took ran out of memory power before I returned, and my photos were lost. Not that there was much to look at anyway. I drove straight past Woolamai and Magiclands and made for the laid-back waves of Smiths Beach. The waves here were not very good, but I unpacked my mini-mal anyway and headed out. I was watching the waves when an elderly fisherman came by and began to complain about the tides and the exposed rocks that make good goal posts to surf between when it is low. He muttered about the young boys charging straight into the frigid waters and then wandered off contemplating his marine prospects at San Remo. I took a photo of him and he was most impressed by the tinyness of my camera. Unfortunately all the photos of this day were lost. It was a good thing that I bought cold water booties, or else my toes may have dropped off. Needless to say my fingers were icicles as I braved the small 2ft challengers. There were 2 young guys on bodyboards also out. I think I caught about 3 short rides and after about an hour my fingers were blue so I decided to recover on the beach. When I came in anothe familiar surfer was making his way out on a short board, so I watched him flail about and fall on the relatively powerless waves. He was not having much luck either in the cold froth. I love victorian waves, just not the winter temp. 8月29日 30 and standing... a surf diaryThese are my thoughts and experiences based on surfing and my life in general. Every time I surf I will add some photos and details of my day. I hope you enjoy reading about them... |
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